The Road Tripper’s Guide to Coastal Maine in Summer

Africa has the safari, Antarctica the cruise, New Zealand its great walks. But America? We have the road trip. No other travel experience is as deeply ingrained in our country’s identity quite like the open road. Exploring these great United States on wheels can be a cinematic experience—so long as you pack a curious and carefree attitude.

I never thought of myself as a road trip person until 2020’s lockdown derailed a trip to Europe and I found myself, instead, embarking on a three-week drive throughout the Pacific Northwest, camping in forests and beaches along the way. It was then that I realized the road trip’s key advantage: spontaneity! What other type of getaway allows you to spot a roadside cherry stand, quickly decide, ah, yes, I would like some cherries, and then promptly pull over to purchase said cherries?

Alas, I’m a road trip person now. One of my most recent jaunts was a weeklong drive up and down Maine’s famed coast, which was as idyllic as it sounds. I ate an obscene amount of lobster, hiked Acadia National Park’s postcard-perfect trails, popped into antique shops, and relished the freedom to explore the region with ease.

Maine’s coast is appealing in all seasons—from oysters in winter to heirloom apples in autumn—but summer is the quintessential experience thanks to near-perfect weather (and sometimes, just plain perfect). Of course, this is also the most popular time of year to visit. But if you plan it well, a Maine summer can be enjoyed in peace and quiet.

Ahead, a handful of insider tips and recommendations for a road trip so pleasant you’ll want to make it a tradition.

Without getting into a philosophical debate about when a simple drive becomes a road trip, it’s a worthy callout that, in order to fully grasp the region, it will require ample time. “I think to really take in the experience you need to set aside at least four days,” Maine native Tony DeLois tells me. (A couple of years ago, he opened Longfellow Hotel in Portland alongside his brother and business partner, Nate.) Even though you don’t need to drive more than a few hours each day, Maine’s coast has several fingers that branch off from Route 1, which are excellent for wandering roadtrippers.

A road trip along Maine’s coast will entail charming towns peppered with antique shops, ice cream parlors, quaint general stores, and plenty of artisan-made products to sample and bring home. Part of the fun is stumbling upon all of the above, but some level of planning is still a good idea. “Without a doubt, Portland needs to be part of the equation and can either be the launching pad for your trip or your landing zone after exploring the coast,” DeLois says.

For my road trip, Portland was my landing zone, where I spent my final two days exploring this underrated city. I feasted on the impeccable menu at Twelve (yes, the lobster roll served in a flaky puff pastry is a non-negotiable order), slurped down oysters at The Shop by Island Creek Oysters, sipped impeccable drinks at Room For Improvement (looks like a dive bar, tastes like a craft cocktail lab), perused Japanese knives at Seisuke, and melted into the massage table at The Longfellow’s Astrea spa followed by an hour in their infrared sauna suite (a delectable antidote for sitting in a car five days in a row).

If it’s not already clear, quaint towns are kind of Maine’s thing, and even a very brief road trip here will introduce you to several of them. If you’re not sure how to map out your drive, do what I did and structure your route around the region’s most exciting stays. In Portland, Longfellow in the city’s historic West End can’t be beat. Over in Kennebunkport, Hidden Pond is the gold standard for an atmospheric stay enveloped by nature. Cape Elizabeth’s Inn by the Sea is old-world charm at its finest, with a wood plank walkway that leads through a bunny habitat and straight to the sand. Up north in Southwest Harbor, check in to The Claremont Hotel, a quintessential Maine property with history dating back to 1883. (Don’t miss out on the nightly s’mores at the fire pit.) And for those who want to be near the national park, book a glamping tent at Under Canvas Acadia to sleep among the pines.

“Maine has a ton of coastline, more than one might think, and more than California,” DeLois says, meaning there are still plenty of hidden gems for roadtrippers to uncover on their journeys. And the way for these gems to be discovered? By pulling over whenever your gut tells you to. “Give yourself plenty of time for unplanned stops, a lot of what makes any road trip DownEast (what we call going up the coast) special is all the roadside stops you can’t find on Google,” he says. “If someone is selling strawberries (June), raspberries (July), or blueberries (August) stop and get some—it’s a must.”

The coastline’s fingers that branch off from Route 1 are well-suited for spontaneous stops. “I highly suggest picking one of these fingers to drive down and explore,” DeLois says, pointing to local route 129 and ending at Christmas Cove in Bristol as one of his favorite runs. “Make it extra special by getting pre-cooked lobsters and/or oysters at the local fish co-op and take them down to Sand Cove Beach,” he says. “There is nothing better than having freshly cooked lobsters from the surrounding water on a small local beach.”

Checking the tides along Maine’s waterfront is par for the course for a successful visit. The tides happen twice a day, every day, and you can expect ranges somewhere between nine to 11 feet. Knowing the tide schedule is not only helpful for ensuring your beach chair isn’t swept away, but also for planning activities like kayaking, fishing, and exploring tide pools. The best time to start tidepooling is before low tide and leaving as the tide is rising. Black rocks and seaweed will be slippery, so wear sturdy shoes, and be mindful of where you place your feet so as not to damage the tidal ecosystem.

You won’t have to contend with crowds during other seasons of the year, but summer in Maine is the peak time for tourism. Don’t let this dissuade you, just plan wisely. It might seem obvious, but one of the best ways to do this is by visiting villages that aren’t as popular. Camden, Kennebunkport, and Bar Harbor are all lovely, but they’re by no means off the beaten path. Go the analog route and make pit stops based on what feels compelling to you in the moment. A physical travel brochure still goes a long way.

For outdoor enthusiasts who plan to visit the national park during their road trip, opt for trails that won’t be swarming with tourists, or arrive before 8 a.m., when fewer hikers will be around. In a similar vein, rather than choosing a lobster shack based on its social media presence, ask a local where they suggest you go. Across the board, the best way to avoid crowds is with curiosity and an open mind, which can come quite naturally when you’re on a roadtrip.

Wiscasset, Maine is often referred to as one of the best destinations for antique shopping in the United States, and the coastal region’s many antique trails are brimming with treasures. A favorite pitstop from my road trip was Indian Trail Antiques in Newcastle, which offers a vast inventory of vintage Americana finds (snowshoes, gas lamps, and jukeboxes galore). There are also several artists in the area selling handcrafted home goods. “I recommend visitors in Portland seek out ANK Ceramics and Campfire Pottery, both studios are within a stone’s throw of each other,” DeLois suggests.

I began my road trip with an aggressive ambition of eating a lobster roll every day. While most locals would advise against such a gluttonous goal, it speaks to the region’s incredibly fresh seafood, produce, and farm-to-table goods that I was (almost) successful in my quest. And the coffee! Don’t bother looking for a Starbucks or Blue Bottle here—there are countless local roasters offering artisanal coffee (my favorite was Green Tree Coffee and Tea in Lincolnville Beach). Ice cream is also a big deal here, with roadside stands and nostalgic parlors all around, including Bay Brook Farm in Appleton that looked so appealing I drove 15 minutes back to town just to get cash. (Reminder: Not everyone takes credit cards in these parts.) As for my favorite lobster roll? It’s a tie between McCloons and The Travelin’ Lobster.