The SS27 Trends: What Comes After Fashion’s Hottest Season Ever?

The Story

Paris and Milan gave us our first breeze of SS27 menswear, and the season’s strongest trends are already in the air. As I filtered through dozens of shows and lookbooks, my overarching observation of the season was that the latest collections appear far more dialed into summer than what was presented in SS26, when some of our top trends included regiment coats, leather pants, and “granny knits.” While those holdovers continued to influence design, far more SS27 numbers feel true to the season, primarily through design choices that keep the body cool in hot, humid weather.

The extreme heat that began to take over Europe in late June made Charli XCX’s “SS26” lyric, “We’re walkin’ on a runway that goes straight to hell,” sound less like hyperbole and more like a live report from Paris’s catwalks. Indeed, June 25 was the hottest day ever recorded in France — the same day that Sarah Burton presented her first Givenchy Menswear collection, and standout shows like Dries Van Noten, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake Man, and Feng Chen Wang took the stage.

Though SS27 still has more to offer in Copenhagen, New York City, and beyond, consistent signals emanating from Milan and Paris set a clear tone. What I felt most was freedom — something the last few seasons, weighed down by tailoring and furs, never quite offered. While sheer looks, satin fabrics, exposed boxers, and extra-cropped silhouettes rewired traditional codes, garments were adorned with eye-catching additions like avian motifs, metal studs, and full-bleed photographic prints. In color, an energetic dynamic between blue and orange hues unfolded, bringing to mind not only the Knicks’ historic victory, but also the call of seaside sunsets. This is fluid, joy-driven dressing for longer, hotter days — and if this summer is teaching us anything, it’s that more of them are coming our way.

Read on to dive into the top SS27 trends, from unconventional fabrics to shrunken silhouettes and the personality-packed details that dominated the runways.

Image 1: Dior/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Feng Chen Wang/Image 4: Im Man/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jacquemus/ Image 7 & 8: Hed Mayner/Image 9: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 10: Shinyakozuka/Image 11: Saint Laurent/Image 12: Paf/Vogue Runway

Look at the translucent fabrics on the SS27 runways, and it’s hard not to think of the barong — the traditional sheer men’s shirt worn for special occasions in the Philippines. Typically made from piña or abaca fibers, the formalwear staple is see-through because of its mesh-like construction, allowing cooling air to pass through. With the West’s weather increasingly resembling the tropical climates of Southeast Asia, it’s no surprise that this heat-friendly hack is being reinterpreted at Parisian maisons. Styles closer to the original barong silhouette were seen in shirts from Kiko Kostadinov and Feng Chen Wang, while interesting iterations also appeared in double-breasted suits at Dior and even in trousers at Hed Mayner. Unburdened by heavyweight yarns and heat-trapping constructions, sheer fabrics could offer more interesting layering opportunities in SS27, whether executed in subtle see-through or full transparency.

Image 1: Willy Chavarria/Image 2: Celine/Image 3: Ralph Lauren/Image 4: Givenchy/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Y-3/Image 7: Ami Paris/Image 8: Sunflower/Image 9: Dries Van Noten/Image 10: Gmbh/Vogue Runway

Satin has always read as ornamental in menswear — a fabric relegated to handkerchiefs and neckties while the rest of the wardrobe leaned on tailoring and utilitarian durability. This season, however, satin fabrics (whether synthetic or silk) gave looks a billowing quality and delicate feel. While Willy Chavarria opted for a full set in floral satin, Celine leaned into the pure sheen of white satin for shirts and trousers. More unconventional applications were seen in a golden V-neck at GmBH and a silky brown overcoat at Ami Paris. But why now? Not only are satins typically lightweight and breathable, silk satins, in particular, have also long been known for their cooling properties. Pajama dressing is the obvious landing point — a satin shirt or shorts against the rest of an everyday wardrobe. A scarf tied at the hip is the quieter version of the same idea.

Image 1: Auralee/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Zegna/Image 4: Celine/Image 5: Willy Chavarria/Image 6: Kolor/Image 7: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 8: Shinyakozuka/Image 9: Hyacn/Vogue Runway

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